As the plane descended through a thick grey blanket of cloud, water droplets being hurled aft across the windows, our first impression of the Czech Republic was “no street lights.”
Our flight was uneventful, but we’d left Britain with clear blue skies and 18 degrees C. As we landed in Prague, the rain was heavy and persistent and it felt more like 8 degrees. But we met our driver at the airport easily enough – a tall young man in his twenties.
“Space hopper,” I inquired. It was actually Resort Hopper, but close enough.
Our driver kept us thoroughly amused on the 30 minute trip to the hotel.
We were wrong about the street lights too. There are street lights, but they look like they have been there for a hundred years, old fashioned bulbs in old fashioned lamps. Thoroughly quaint. Our hotel, Zlata Hvezda, translates as the Golden Star. It’s an old Baroque building right underneath Prague Castle, with a 270 year old staircase, but with mostly modern furnishings and fittings. It has 28 rooms and best of all, free wi-fi. From the windows, we can see Prague castle, the Royal route and the lesser town rooftops. It’s enchanting. And we have only been here an hour. I think we are going to have a great time here.
It is very comfortable but our room has the distinction of being about as tall as it is wide, with a beautiful chandelier the main lighting. The bed is actually two singles pushed together with a sheet over the two, but separate duvets. Odd. There is a shower big enough for two, but over the next few days we came to miss not having a bath.
It was still raining when we woke up this morning, and we feared a dreary day. I suggested staying in bed, but Cathy didn’t want to waste a day, so we got up, had breakfast and donned our walking boots. By the time we got outside it had stopped raining, so we set off.
First stop was the shop across the road which sold marionettes. Beautiful hand-made puppets in a hundred different styles and costumes. Then we walked down the hill, looking in souvenir shops and taking loads of pictures of all the amazing buildings. We stopped at the church of St Nicholas, paying CZK 70 ( about £2.30) each to go inside. The sculpture and artwork were quite stunning, although thought-provoking. Some featured priests slaying what looked like children with long staffs or bolts of lightning while cherubs looked on from the surrounding walls.
Feeling thirsty we went across the road to a cafeteria that had photographs of Ferraris all over the walls. And of the owner with F1 drivers, including Mika Hakkinen, Fernando Alonso, Tonio Liuzi and Michael Schumacher. I suspect the place is quite famous among Ferrari fans.
We walked on down to the Vltava river and the famous George bridge, which was packed with people selling artwork and jewellery. At the other end of the bridge, we stopped outside another church, then turned around and went back to the hotel for a rest before dinner.
For dinner, we walked down the hill to a quaint little restaurant that we chose because it advertised “goulash in bread pot” which sounded delicious. There was more onion than beef, but it was a very taste of local cuisine, which we thoroughly enjoyed.
I could hardly open my eyes for the sun streaming in through the windows. And even at 8am, the sun was warm on our skin when we opened the windows and looked out.
After breakfast, we walked up to the square and the entrance to Prague Castle and the hugely impressive Mordor cathedral. Actually, it was St. Vitus’ cathedral and a magnificent building it is. Tickets to the whole complex cost us CZK 350 each (about £11) for two whole days. We must have spent three hours walking through the cathedral, the castle, and the various other museums and historic residences that comprise the Castle. We walked back through the gardens on the ramparts and found the Terrace cafe, which served us roast pork wraps and potato cakes with smoked salmon for lunch as we sat in the glorious sunshine.
By the time we’d got back to the square at the front of the castle again, the square and the surrounding roads – including the hairpin bend right in front of our hotel – had been transformed, with pedestrian barriers and inflatable arches, into a racetrack for mountain bikes. Today was the 20th running of this annual event, which is apparently the biggest in Prague, with ex-Olympians competing in the elite race, which is finishing as I type this sentence at 7pm local time.
For dinner, we ate at Cowboys, which is part bar, part night club, part restaurant, with a lovely rooftop terrace which affords a view across the city. We both had very decent steaks and a good red wine, finishing off with cocktails before walking back up the hill to the hotel and bed.
It started off warm and sunny again for the third day in a row so we dressed light and walked up to the castle to find a sightseeing tour car. We found the square almost deserted, but after just a minute, the first car parked in front of us. It was originally a Morgan apparently, but I think it was a kit car, stretched and with a skoda engine. The driver, Steve, took us down to Little Venice, through Lesser Town and around Old Town, calling out interesting facts and landmarks in perfect English during the 45 minute tour, which cost us CZK 1,200 less than £40).
During lunch in a pub restaurant Steve recommended, the skies got grey and it started to rain. Luckily there was a kiosk close by that sold umbrellas. Back to the hotel we went to change into something warmer, and back out we went. Down the hill, across the George bridge again and into Old Town. And then we walked. Seemingly in a series of loops, each of which ended up back at the square. What a place! The gothic and baroque architecture was an amazing backdrop to a marathon concert by various brass bands playing everything from Phil Collins to movie themes to jazz and swing. At least one band was made up entirely of kids from an art school. And they were really good. We sat outside at a restaurant under garden umbrellas, warmed by gas heaters, eating pancakes with Nutella and whipped cream, and drinking honey beer and lemon tea. A homeless man had two pieces of wood and a length of string with which he created soap bubbles as big as beach balls for the amusement of the tourists, until it started to rain a little harder and he moved on.
Actually, we have been surprised by the number of beggars we have seen. They kneel down in the same position as a Muslim praying, with cap in their extended hands. Most have dogs with them too, as seems common the world over.
Under the umbrella, we walked back to the hotel and collapsed on the bed, exhausted. But not for long, because we had to shower and change for dinner at Kampa Park, recommended to us by @Texpatriate who has been here before.
The restaurant has indoor and outdoor sections, right beside the river. It felt like we could almost reach out and touch the ducks floating by. The food was exquisite, but restaurants here have the peculiar habit of pouring in 125ml by judgement alone. Not nearly enough, especially when that little glass cost over £10! The total came to about £135, but that’s not too bad considering the quality and quantity of what we ate.
The forecast for tomorrow is for temperatures barely into the teens, and heavy rain. We have no plans except wait and see.
As predicted, we awoke to a grey and misty morning, and getting out of bed was difficult. But we made it down to breakfast and then decided, since there was no rain, to go for a short walk. We didn’t want anything too strenuous or too far, given how far we walked yesterday, and besides, heavy rain was forecast. We also wanted to go somewhere we hadn’t been already. So we headed up the hill rather than down, walking past little antique shops and through the grounds of an old monastery undergoing repair.
Then we found ourselves at one end of the Petrin park, a hilly wooded area with lovely footpaths. We strolled for a while, heading deeper into the woods, curious to see what lay ahead. Eventually we came to a large homeland restaurant and a funicular railway before heading back down again. Trying to find a different route, we discovered only muddy tracks but eventually found our way to the bottom and city streets. Miraculously, we followed our noses and came to the street about 100 yards from our hotel. We’d been walking for about two hours so we walked straight into a pub/restaurant for lunch.
After buying a few more souvenirs, it started to rain. Again, we had timed it perfectly. We got back to the hotel and flopped onto the bed to doze for a while. A cup of tea for me and coffee for Cathy went down nicely, and then Cathy packed up all our clothes and gifts carefully ready for tomorrow.
We have to check out by 11am, but we’ll leave our suitcases at the hotel and spend the afternoon walking around again, I suspect, because our taxi arrives at 18:55 to take us back to the airport and home. We won’t land until nearly 11pm so it will be midnight by the time we get to bed.
It was raining steadily when we checked out of the hotel at 11am, but I had an idea. The ‘hop on, hop off’ bus stopped right outside our hotel, so we got on. I asked the driver about tickets.
“Assistant,” he replied.
So we took our seats and while the bus stop-started its way down the hill, we stared out at the traffic and the rain and thought, “at least we’re dry and warm.”
But we’d noticed that the ticket (which we didn’t have, despite my trying to attract the assistant’s attention) was valid for 48 hours and included a boat trip. And we didn’t have enough cash on us. S when the little bus stopped in the Old Town square, we joined a number of other passengers and got off. We felt like stowaways!
And karma nearly paid us back when we stopped at a cash machine, which gave us a CZK2,000 note. A gentleman approached us and offered to swap our large bill (worth about £73) for his smaller denomination ones. Except we didn’t recognise the currency. And he seemed awfully pushy. So we kept our money and walked on, pleased to have avoided being fleeced.
Umbrella raised, we strolled through Old Town, looking for shelter wherever we could, while I tried to keep Cathy out of the jewellery shops. We went down a little alley and found a chocolate museum, where we whiled away another 90 minutes, including a short demonstration of chocolate moulding and a little taste of the delicious product. Cathy couldn’t resist stopping at the shop to buy pralines and chocolate drops, which I’m sure we will enjoy cooking with. The pralines may not make it back as far as Gatwick.
Lunch was taken in the same outdoor cafe where we ate pancakes on Wednesday, including a pint of delicious honey beer. All that consumed another two hours and at 5pm we took a taxi back to the hotel. As I write this, when have another hour to wait for our airport shuttle and the plane home.
Prague has been a revelation for me. It’s a wonderful destination for anyone looking for a city break. Only two hours from London, it’s easily accessible, and the flights and accommodation packages are relatively cheap.
So what are the major characteristics of Prague?
Cobblestone streets
Amazing architecture and history
A wonderfully friendly local population, who almost all speak very good English. Most of the essential signs are also in English as well as Czech.
Litter bins everywhere, and people use them so the streets are spotless.
Good food, and good beer. Goulash and schnitzels can be found around every second street corner, and pavement cafes are everywhere in the centre of town.
Art and culture – there are art galleries and classical concerts all over. Buskers here play traditional music on traditional instruments, and souvenir shops sell original etchings and oil paintings for a song.
The Segway tour. Yes, ride a Segway around the city streets while a guide describes local attractions.
Thai massages. There seems to be a number of these in all sorts of unlikely places
Absinth is freely available for sale in small bottles in shops and, in bars, even as an ice cream flavour.
We were told that crime is rare, but we have encountered petty crime incidents twice in a week, so either we are especially unlucky, or crime is more prevalent than we were led to believe. Still, it wouldn’t keep me from coming again one day.
